Woodworking jigs are an essential part of any woodworking shop. They are great for repetitive tasks in many projects and make the more difficult much easier and faster to complete. Jigs are not expensive, but making them from scrap wood is even cheaper. There are a variety of jigs available, and the type you need depends on the projects you like to do. Dovetail jigs help make dovetail joints accurately and can be purchased fairly inexpensively. Of course, you can make your own dovetail jig. Templates are available on the internet or in most stores selling woodworking supplies. If you plan to make your own jigs, you will want to pick up a dovetail saw or a dovetail bit for your router. Many templates allow you to make up to twelve different sizes of jigs. Templates also allow you to make a variety of spaced or fixed dovetails for a wide range of products, such as cabinets and drawers. Some kits come with bits and templates which can save you money as compared to purchasing them separately.

Dovetail saws are great tools for cutting dovetails and fine joints for other projects. Blades on dovetail saws are thicker than on others and provide greater accuracy when cutting joints. It is important to purchase quality tools for cutting tight joints. Fourteen to seventeen points per inch is a good guideline to look for in quality saws.

Another type is the dowel jig which is used to make consistent, quality dowels. A self centering jig provides better accuracy for those times when you are using thick wood. Sizes of dowel jigs vary from one-quarter to one-half inch. Especially if you are not sure what size you need, purchasing a complete kit with several hundred dowels in a variety of sizes might be a good choice.

Kreg jigs are a great jig for cabinet making. Accurately positioned slides are necessary for the drawer to move smoothly. A benefit of kreg jigs is that you do not need to measure and mark the spaces for the drawer slides. Kreg jigs make it much easier to mount drawer slides, especially for its low cost and versatility.

Making your own jigs saves money, particularly in supplies. You can just use scrap pieces of plywood. If you plan to re-use the jigs, you may want to use a stronger wood. Otherwise, since jigs are only used for one project, there is little reason to spend a lot on materials. Plywood should suffice. Instructions on making jigs can be found in magazines or books or on the internet. You can photocopy or print the instructions for future use.

The best advice that can possibly be given to someone starting out in the fascinating hobby of coin collecting is to “buy the book before you buy the coin”. Not doing the necessary research before diving in could prove to be a very expensive mistake.

You don't want to turn your potentially fascinating hobby into a potentially frustrating nightmare by failing to understand first principles of what you are getting into. A little bit of research now can save a lot of heartache later.

One often advised method of starting is simply to collect the coins currently in circulation. This can give you a great introduction without involving any risk whatsoever, as you can take the coins and spend them if you decide the hobby is not for you. You can, however, learn an enormous amount by studying these current circulation coins, their markings and features and comparing them to the reference book you have hopefully bought!

Once you have started collecting the coins currently in circulation, you can broaden your horizons and move into other areas. Hopefully, coin collecting will not only prove a fascinating hobby, but also a great chance to meet like minded people and make new friends.

The most obvious place to find collectible coins is in a specialist coin shop, which exist in all major town and cities and even in some villages which are antiques and collectors centres. These shops are often run by people with extensive knowledge and experience and can be an extremely valuable source of knowledge, help and information, as well as obviously a great source of coins themselves. You are very unlikely to pick up a bargain this way, because the dealers will have intimate knowledge of catalogue prices, as well as the prices coins can realistically fetch in the open market. What you will be able to do is source many rare and unusual items, by asking these specialist dealers to search them out for you.

Specialist coin dealers are also regularly found at coin fairs and shows. The big advantage of this is that there will be several dealers all together in the one place, allowing you to shop around for the exact stock you want and compare prices.

Many coins can also be found at events, which are not exclusively for coin dealers, such as general antique fairs, flea markets and craft shows. As these are not specialist events, you need to take extreme care in making sure that dealers are not just offloading problem stock such as marked or damaged coins. On the other hand, it is also possible to pick up bargains from a retailer who does not specialize and just happens to have picked up coins as part of a general lot.

You can also buy coins from mail order dealers, although in this case you will have to be more careful, as you will have no opportunity to examine the goods before you buy them. In this case it is absolutely imperative that you make sure that the mail order dealer has an adequate returns policy. There have been far too many cases of coins being graded too highly by unscrupulous dealers, or even coins with serious defects being sold to unsuspecting newcomers to the hobby. Make sure, if you are inexperienced, that you get the opinion of someone you can trust and return the coins to the dealer if they are not as described.

Of course there are now many coin dealers on the internet offering near instant payment and dispatch, but again you will have no opportunity to examine the coins before you are charged. Again, make sure there is an adequate returns policy.

A newcomer to coin collecting would be well advised to stay away from specialist or general auctions and from direct dealing with other collectors, unless those collectors are well known to him as being trustworthy. Start slowly in the hobby at first and expand as your knowledge grows.

Do, however, join a local club if you possibly can. Meeting like-minded people and making new friends is surely one of the great benefits of any leisure pursuit. Getting hold of a good book and joining a local club will be your two most important steps in gaining knowledge quickly, avoiding being exploited as a newcomer and being able to enjoy your hobby as quickly and effectively as possible.

I don't know about you, but I don't live close to town. You look any direction out of my home's windows or doors, and you are going to see fields. This has its advantages, and its disadvantages. One disadvantage, if I am working on or planning a new craft project, I can't just run to the craft store real quick. It is much more convenient for me to find what I need online.

Convenience is not the only reason to shop online. You can find some great deals online that you may not find in a craft store. However, before you rush to your computer, there are some things that you should always keep in mind when shopping online.

Check the websites of craft stores you typically shop at. Michaels, JoAnn Fabrics, and Hobby Lobby all have websites. You can also look at other reputable online stores like Amazon.com. Other websites geared directly toward selling craft supplies include Moore's, Create for Less, and sunshinecrafts.

If you haven't checked out ebay before, now may be a good time to start. Lots of crafters who have extra supplies, fabrics, or other materials that they are not going to use will put those extras on ebay for a very reasonable price. The key is – shop names that you know. If you don't know the names of any good online stores, ask around. See where your friends or colleagues have had good luck finding quality supplies at good prices.

There are other things to consider before you skip the craft store for an online store. What is their return policy? Make sure that you are able to return a product before you purchase it. Know whether or not it has to be returned within a certain amount of time, unopened, and if you are responsible for paying return postage. What payment types do they accept?

You are not going to be able to pick up and examine the product as you would in a craft store, so be sure you read everything about the product. Pictures are great, but also read all the information they have listed. Check their shipping rates. It's not a great deal if the cost of shipping is outrageous. Keep in mind that heavier and larger items are going to cost more to ship.

Websites, much like physical craft stores, can give you great ideas for new projects. You can find a lot of really good ideas, and free directions. Often, these sites will give you a supply list that you can then use to order your products.

The downside to ordering your supplies online? You have to wait! If you put together a good shopping list, and need to be in town anyway, you could get the things you need from the craft store today, then you can get started on your project right away!

My recommendation is that you shop at both the craft store and online. You never know what deals and what products you are going to find where. It is always best to look at all your options. Besides, what is better than spending an hour in the craft store looking at all the great things you could do!

Now that the age of hangers has shifted and most people have changed to plastic or wooden hangers, there is a surplus of wire hangers, especially those that come from the dry cleaners, scattered around the house or in the floors of closets. Why not uses those old pieces of useful wire to make a fund craft that your kids will enjoy. Not only will it solve the wire hanger problem, but it will also provide a way to keep your children’s minds stimulated and hands busy with an inexpensive craft. In this example, you will learn how to coach your kids through making and designing their own wire mask.

Kids love to play dress up, and there is nothing more fun than playing with a mask for make-believe. So grab those unwanted wire clothes hangers around the house along with old knee-high nylons, glue, scissors, markers or crayons, and any other decorative items like glitter, yarn, pipe cleaners, wiggly eyeballs, or fabric scraps. Once you have these items assembled, you are ready to move forward with the craft, so call your kids into the playroom or wherever you have assembled the materials and start of with step one.

Using the hook like a handle, bend the triangular shape of the wire clothes hanger into the desired shape of your child’s mask. A diamond is very easy and works great since you need only stretch the hanger out by pulling the hook away from the middle of the bottom wire (kind of like drawing a bow and arrow). If you want to get a little more creative you can form the hanger into an oval, square, or any other shape. For example, some kids might like to make a mask for Valentine’s Day, so you might help them shape the hanger into a heart shape. After the hanger is shaped, the hook of the hanger is now the handle (or holder) for the mask, think of those masquerade style party masks that people hold up to their face.

Next, take a knee-high nylon that you collect for this craft and stretch it over the top of the shaped part of the hanger. This will create a flat figure in the shape of the hanger that you bent. If you kids want the mask to look three dimensional, they can even press their face into the stretchy nylon to make the relief of their face through the mask. After you have made the basic form, it is time for the decorating process. To keep it simply, you can just provide markers or other writing utensils for the kids to draw on the nylon with. If you want to get more involved they can use all of the decorative items listed above or more. You would be surprised how much time decorating their mask can take up. It can really be a fun thing to do.

Keep seeking new ways to use those old items around the house to have fun with your kids and stimulate their creativity. You do not have to spend a fortune on arts and crafts from the major craft venders for your kids to enjoy themselves and learn a few things.

What exactly is cross stitch embroidery : Cross-stitch is one of the oldest forms of embroidery and is famous amongst enthusiasts across the world. Many folk museums show examples of clothing decorated with cross-stitch, especially from continental Europe and Asia. Cross-stitch is a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches are used to form a picture.

There are two different stitching techniques commonly used in Cross Stitch Embroidery.

The first, the "stab" method, is used by most beginning stitchers. The stab method involves moving the hand back and forth from the front of the fabric to the back of the fabric. The needle is "stabbed" into the front of the fabric, left there, and then pulled through from the other side. The second, the "Sewing" method is a favourite of stitchers who prefer to hold the fabric in the hand instead of hoop.

Each stitch technique has unique characteristics. The stab method is effective when using a hoop or frame. The stab method of stitching does not distort the fabric. It is easy to make certain that the stitch is placed properly. In the sewing method, the stitcher's hand and needle stay on top of the fabric, except when securing floss. The needle scoops under the weave of the fabric. Since this requires practice, the sewing method is not the best for beginners. It is more difficult to ensure stitch placement, and the fabric can be distorted by the scooping motion. For more experienced stitchers, this sewing technique is preferred for some projects because a hoop is not required and the speed is considerably faster.

Some forms of Cross Stitch :
Here we introduce you to some of the common and famous forms of cross stitch : Counted cross-stitch is unique since this involves actual counting of each of the stitches. Cross-stitch is done on designs printed on the canvas, showing every single cross (stamped cross-stitch)."

Two-dimensional (unshaded) cross-stitch in floral and geometric patterns, usually worked in black and red cotton floss on linen, is characteristic of folk embroidery in Eastern and Central Europe.

Multicoloured, shaded, painting-like patterns as we know them today are a recent development, deriving from similar shaded patterns of Berlin wool work of the mid-nineteenth century

Cross-stitch is the most popular form of hobby embroidery in the western world. It lends itself well to recreational use, as it is easy to learn and very versatile.

In the United States, the earliest known cross-stitch sampler is currently housed at Pilgrim Hall in Plymouth, Massachusetts (Pilgrim Hall).The sampler was created by Loara Standish, the daughter of Captain Myles Standish, circa 1653.

Traditionally, cross-stitch was used to embellish items like dishcloths, household linens, and doilies (only a small portion of which would actually be embroidered). Although there are many cross-stitchers who still employ it in this fashion, especially in Europe, it is now more popular to simply embroider plain pieces of canvas and hang them on the wall for decoration. There are many cross-stitching "guilds" across the United States and Europe which offer classes, collaborate on large projects, stitch for charity, and provide other ways for local cross-stitchers to get to know one another.

We live in a day and age where fast and convenient is revered above all; time is a rare commodity and patience isn’t necessary. So, for most, the art of quilting is difficult to imagine. The level of skill, patience, and concentration required for quilting makes it seem as though it would be a dying art. But, in truth, quilting continues to endure as a time-honored tradition.

When layers of fabric are sewn together and filled with material, this is known as quilting. The two pieces of fabric form a pocket of sorts and the material inside – often cotton based – provides the warmth for which quilts are known. Examples of quilting can be found everywhere from blankets and decorative wall hangings, to fashion accessories and furniture coverings.

Quilting began as early as the 12th century when primitive civilizations used scraps of fabric to sew together for warmth. As quilting evolved, the method of pulling together available material into a cohesive design endured. Handmade quilts of the time were constructed with the use of needles, thread, and simple frames. Quilting only increased in popularity when it was introduced in America by early settlers. But when the sewing machine was introduced in the 20th century, the art of handmade quilting fell to the wayside temporarily.

Today, quilting is just as popular as it was initially, and is performed much like it ever was as quilters design pieces from a variety of different materials. The tools are essentially the same although their sophistication has been elevated – quilting needles, quilting thread, pins, and the like, are still used by crafting artisans. The advent of the quilting machine has increased the ease and convenience with which quilts are made and make for consistent and controlled stitches. Whether you use a quilting machine or prefer the handmade process, the result is the same if you are quilting with passion.

Quilting promises to maintain its long and time honored tradition in homes around the world as more and more people discover its timeless charm.

One thing that many new face painters have in common is a lack of confidence when picking up a paintbrush, learning how to face paint for the first time. Face painting with confidence is really a combination of thinking positively and practicing so that you too can paint with the confidence of a professional face painter!

It can be difficult to feel confident when you’re just learning how to face paint and you’re not sure about what you’re doing. But surely this isn’t the first thing you’ve tried to learn in your life, right? People are so quick to forget their achievements and dwell on the things that they’ve failed or how hard the new task in front of them is.

So, help build your confidence by just purely being aware that you already have a whole range of your own skills – if you have already learnt all that, then surely you can learn how to face paint!

Fear of Failure - Afraid of making mistakes? Afraid that no one will like your face painting designs? The thought of failure can attack your self confidence and can drive you to procrastinate, to always put off learning new things like how to face paint. A way to combat the thought of failing is through positive thinking. If you think you’re going to fail, you will. If you think you’re going to succeed, you will!

Making Mistakes - Artists who aren’t afraid of making mistakes still make mistakes but they don’t see it as a failure, they see it as a learning experience. So be happy that you’ve made a mistake! You’ve just taught yourself a lesson that is going and make yourself a better painter!

Remember that often we are much harder on ourselves than we are on other people especially in the case of learning how to face paint. The mistake you just made may seem gigantic to you but chances are nobody else will even notice unless you actually point it out! And with children, they’re not going to mind about a few wobbly lines or a design that’s not quite ‘perfect’, they’re usually just happy and satisfied enough with the fact that they get to feel special having their face painted!

Practice makes perfect – we’ve all heard that line before. But in the art world there’s really no such thing as perfect. Everybody has to practice in order to improve, even professional painters who have been painting for ten years still practice and they’re constantly learning new things about how to face paint all the time. The more you put into it, the more you’ll eventually get out of it.

You have just spent the Winter months creating all of your gourd masterpieces. Now what? It's time to get them out of your hands and into the hands of someone else. One way to get your art into the public eye and (more importantly) get it sold is to take a look at doing shows or festivals. But there are so many nowadays. Which ones should you do? To help in your decision-making, here are 7 insider tips for selecting where you will sell your art.

1. Location, Location, Location!(I’m sure you have heard of this before)
Things to consider:

A. Is the venue close and easily accessible to the public and vendors? Is it close to Metropolitan areas or is it out in the sticks? What is the probability that someone will drive out to the show and spend money on gas, food, lodging, parking and entry fee, plus spend money on buying your art?
B. Where is your booth or your art located at the event? Will it be visible, in the natural flow of foot traffic? Or are you hidden away and put in a last minute overflow area of the event?

2. Type of Venue
Is it an art gallery show, city/county fair or a "mom and pop" festival? What is the draw? Fairs and art gallery shows are usually well-funded and have budgets for advertising the event, along with large followings and a target list of qualified buyers (which is what you want). The more people who know about the event, the more people will show up.

"Mom and pop" festivals can be great! They usually take place on private property, but they generally have small to non-existent advertising budgets. They are generally less crowded and have a more relaxed atmosphere than the county fairs. They also tend to attract similar artists and niche buyers to your type of art. In other words, they may buy, but there will be less of them to buy. Therefore, consider how many other vendors and artists will be selling and competing for the smaller pool of buyers. Also, consider the fact that mom and pops put on festivals to promote themselves, their products, and provide a venue for others to do the same. Overall, mom and pop shows are a good place to network with other artists, find out where the "best" shows are, and build lasting friendships. For these shows, bring art in all price ranges (more in the smaller prices and less in the higher), plus offer supplies and information because the artists that attend are more likely to buy your supplies and info and just get their ideas from your art.

County/City Fairs are in the business to have shows and draw large numbers of people to their venues. They need the people through the gate to help pay for all of the advertising they put out. They are not necessarily as concerned with how many buyers specifically. They are more focused on getting a lot people to the venue. The philosophy being that they get the attendance, and it's up to you to make the sale, regardless as to whether they are qualified buyers or just looky-loos. Although usually well-organized, the overall feel as a vendor/artist is one of non-emotion. You are more of a number and will rarely interact with the show organizers. The huge plus to these types of shows is the number of people and chances you have to actually sell your art. It's a great way to get exposure and to increase your mailing list. It is also a great way to reach people who may be interested in your work but would not have found you otherwise. For these shows, bring art in all price ranges (a nice mix of low to high) and offer a free drawing to collect their information (for your mailing list, of course).

Art gallery shows are there to promote and sell art to as many people as possible. The draw for a gallery show is much more intimate. However, the buyers who walk into a gallery showing are more apt to buy, and better still, they are more likely to buy the higher priced art pieces. The art galleries definitely want to sell your art because they need to pay for their overhead. Therefore, the promotion and burden tends to rest on how well they can advertise and present each art piece. And due to the labor involved, they will spend more time, money, and effort promoting the higher priced pieces. Also, consider they have a reputation that they must maintain. Your effort to get into a gallery is limited by whether you are approved by the gallery staff. For these venues, select your very best. Keep in mind, however, that you will take a large cut in the price that you will receive. And remember that the ultimate price tag that is set for your art by the gallery must match what your art is worth to the buyer. You should never UP your prices to a gallery just to get more in the end. That will only hinder the sale of your work, not help. Go into a gallery, knowing that you may not make as much as you would normally on the piece but the likelihood of your work selling at that higher price is better.

3. Juried or Non-Juried
This can work for you in two ways: If you are just getting started, and your art gets juried in with better art and well-known artists, it gives your art more credibility and possibly increases its value. It also feels good and builds confidence. If you go to non-juried shows, and your art is mixed in with beginners, stay optimistic; your art has a better chance to stand out! Either way, you will want to have an eye-catching and appealing display to draw the people and buyers to your work.

4. Age and Credibility of Show
How many years has the show been on? Is it a new show or has it been around for many years? Chances are, if a show is new, it may have some bugs to work out and may not be run as smooth as a seasoned show. Plus, the likelihood is greater that not many people may know about it or attend. On the other hand, if Martha Stewart decided to put on a show/festival next weekend, chances are that it is going to be a huge draw! Find out who is putting on the show and who are the key sponsors. This could make a difference in the show's success. On the flipside, no matter how seasoned or long an event has been held, if the promoters or organization is difficult, unorganized, not very accommodating, or only has a self interest attitude (not care whether you sell anything or not), they bank on making their money from you the vendor and public entry charge. No matter what, they are going to make their money. Otherwise, they would not put on the event, which is OK as long you make money also. Trust your gut feeling. If you have or get a negative feeling about a show, then chances are, so do others (artists, vendors, attendees), and quite possibly, you should reconsider.

5. Word of Mouth
Ask anyone who has been to the show/festival you wish to attend. Ask about their personal experience; whether they were a vendor/artist or viewing (buying) public. Was the show worth the effort? Would they do it again? How were they treated? Can they offer any recommendations? These types of questions could save you a tremendous amount of money, time and head or heartache.

6. Facilities: Indoors or Outdoors
Venues such as fairgrounds and art galleries tend to be very clean events. Usually held indoors, protected from the wind, sun and dirt/dust (which can be devastating to your art and health), have nearby parking, places to eat, clean bathrooms, first aid and are generally vendor and public friendly. Mom and pop festivals, if outdoors, can be dusty if not on pavement or grass. You will be exposed to the elements in one way or another. However, there are those who make the effort to accommodate the vendors and viewing public. They generally do very well and are usually fun to attend. They provide shaded or large covered areas to display your art such as a barn or massive canopies (keeping the elements like sun/drizzle, falling branches, and birds with digestive disorders away from you and your art) They will generally have concrete or grass flooring (handicap accessible), nearby vendor and easy public parking, food, and clean bathrooms. All these should be normal at any event. If the promoter/director cares about you and the facilities, you will most likely have a good show and come back again.

7. Costs
What will it cost you when it is all said and done? Consider the time and money it takes for you to prepare, before, during and after the festival. Before you even leave your studio, it starts costing you. Application and registration fees, making and sending photos of your art to get juried, commissions or percentage of sales (which can eat your profits) getting booth set ups, gas, food, lodging, more gas, and other incidentals like buying art or more supplies. It all starts to add up! So estimate as close as you can, what you think you might spend and the minimum of what you realistically think you can sell and see if it is worth it to you. If you manage to break even, had a good time, met some new people and gained some experience, it may be worth it. The hope is to have a good time, sell art and make a profit at the end of the show. The drive home becomes a lot shorter and sweeter.

The bottom line is, shows are a lot of work overall, and you want to do well personally, professionally, and financially. If you need to, make a list of pros and cons for each show. You are the only one who can decide which shows to do or not. Use these tips in making a decision on a show that is good for you and a win/ win for all involved. And most importantly have fun!

Knife sharpening has always been one of the most important parts of tool maintenance, even dating back to the when the first primitive tool was made. In Colonial times, a grist mill was many times the first building to be set up when a new settlement was formed. This is because pioneers knew that without sharp tools, the building processed would be a very slow process.

Sharpening tools today are based on the same physics as the old grist mills and whet stones but a little more advanced and with a lot power. For instance, grinding wheels once powered by water wheels are now zapped with electricity to speed up the sharpening process dramatically. It now takes only a fraction of the time to properly sharpen its tools. A knife sharpener can come in several forms. The bench top grinder, for example, is good for sharpening axe blades and gardening tools.

It is important to keep your tools sharp for purposes of quality and safety. Chain saws need to be sharpened often to ensure a quality cut and, consequently, greater safety when cutting. An abrasive end to a long drill-bit attachment is inserted into the drill and tightened, and the drill quickly rotates the end as the saw blade is held against it. When choosing the best sharpener for your chain saw, look for a sharpener that comes with multiple tips since the tips will wear out quickly.

Tormek manufacturers a knife and scissor sharpener that is a bench top grinder with water which helps to reduce friction. The grinder comes with a complete package including a leather strop, though some users recommend a paper wheel to hone and stop the edges of the knife.

Versatility is the most important item to look for in a knife sharpener. It should be able to sharpen longer knife blades and strop the edges adequately. You should also consider whether or not the replacement parts are easy to obtain. These are all things that should be considered to ensure that you are getting everything you need, especially considering knife sharpeners appropriate for heavy duty maintenance can cost up to thousands of dollars.

Heavy duty grinding wheels and chains saw sharpeners are, of course, for the serious woodworkers and landscapers. For all others, there is a wide variety of less expensive and more portable sharpening tools available. The handheld sharpener you would find in a butcher shop is a basic tool requiring no electricity. Other variations include the wheeled knife sharpeners in which the blade is drawn between two hard wheels. Abrasive materials are drawn against a knife at about a thirty degree angle, and this is done whether it is electric and manual. Regardless of manual or electric, you can still get a quality sharpening. At the heart of how sharp a tool can become is the skill of the knife owner at angling and stopping the blade. Knife sharpening classes and educational courses are offered, which may be a good idea if having the sharpest tool in the shed is important to you.

Does your firewood rack need filled? You could, of course, split the logs by hand with a mallet and wedge. Isn’t the old saying true that cutting your own fire wood warms you twice? But, if you would rather be warmed by the wood burning rather than the work of cutting it, a log splitter is a tool that you definitely want to consider.

Log splitters are measured in ton capacity. The question of how many tons is a two-fold question. A professional grade splitter is at least twenty tons and those for personal, home use range from two to five tons. The ton size also determines the engine’s horsepower. Keep in mind that a stronger engine is needed to not burn out after hundreds of logs. The first thing to consider in determining the best size for you is whether it is for personal firewood consumption, furniture making, or commercial building or firewood sales.

Obviously, the main benefit of a log splitter is that it makes the job of splitting firewood so much easier and less time consuming. However, log splitters have more uses than just cutting firewood. For example, forestry suppliers use log splitters as the first step in making wood planking or preparing logs for paper making. This king of logging equipment can be used at the forest site to manage trees for transport and prepare wood for particular uses. Following log splitter plans, this step is an important step as it save time and money.

A hydraulic log splitter can not only stock you firewood rack, but it can also be used as valuable log furniture tool. There is quite a high demand for the rustic look for cabin and outdoor, nature décor.

Log splitters range in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousands of dollars, even including used splitters. Thus, the next thing to consider is how valuable your time is. If you can manually split ten logs per hour and you earn fifty dollars per hour at your “day job,” you have hired yourself an extremely well paid log splitter. On the contrary, a hydraulic log splitter of approximately four tons can split ten times the number of logs per hour which results in much cheaper help.

Finally, the issue of safety must also be considered. Self-lubricating and maintaining capabilities of log splitters keep them operating as safely as possible. An axe needs regular sharpening since it becomes dull when it hits the dirt.

The three main things to consider are safety, time and convenience. They are all worth more than any attempt to warm yourself the old fashioned way by splitting the logs yourself. Even a homeowner who lights a fire in the fireplace for effect more than heat will benefit from the ability to quickly stock the firewood rack using a gas powered hydraulic log splitter.

Home businesses are booming, and craft and hobby businesses are flourishing as well. Craftwork is a $13 billion dollar industry in the United States, and crafts artisans now average $76,000 in annual sales. That's great news for artisans, entrepreneurs, and even Uncle Sam, who also makes money when you do. And when it comes to taxes, the tax code is full of deductions for businesses -- and you are entitled to take them whether you work from home or from a studio space. Besides the financial opportunities, there are many reasons to pursue a home or hobby business. Perhaps you seek artistic freedom or are driven by a desire to love what you do. Maybe your family obligations require you to have a flexible schedule or to travel less. Possibly there's just no more shelf space for your ceramic creations and your spouse thinks it is time for you to ...

DALLAS -- Craft and hobby supplies, a long-forgotten merchandise category for many mass retailers, has generated attention once again as a moneymaker due in large part to the hot growth of scrapbooking and increasing interest in crafting handmade items, whether for gifts, self-satisfaction or home decor.

The fast emergence of memory making or scrapbooking continues to create the most buzz in this industry. This estimated $2 billion niche is growing about 50% per year and is part of the greater $29 billion market for craft and hobby supplies.

Many retailers are expanding space for scrapbooking, including craft specialists, office supply superstores and discount chains. Numerous small scrapbooking stores have sprung up around the country, and leading craft retailer Michaels has even launched a new concept, Recollections, dedicated to this market.

"Scrapbooking has been good for the last few years. It's still a strong category," said Larry Fine, president of AC Moore. "We're conscious of changes in the business and will reallocate space as we see necessary in the category."

This hobby has now evolved into a broader paper crafting market that entails making gift cards and tags, journals and altered books, the latter of which involves using old books as a scrapbook format. Materials to decorate paper crafts are becoming increasingly elaborate, with textured embellishments that include beads, stickers, wire, eyelets, fibers and miniature gift tags among the hottest items.

Although variety is key in merchandising the category, some distinct trends are emerging. For example, vintage-look labels, papers and embellishments to create a collage effect are trendy right now, according to several suppliers. Also popular are primitive art effects, such as the new Eco Africa papercraft line from Provo Craft.

Companies dabbling in this category keep multiplying. At the recent Hobby Industry Association trade show in Dallas, several scrapbooking lines were launched, including a system targeting the beginner from television personality Leeza Gibbons and Xyron; a 150-SKU Kodak scrapbooking supply program from RoseArt; and a 150-SKU scrapbooking line called Paper, Rock, Scissors from Duncan.

Besides paper crafts, other growth segments in the craft industry now include yarn, jewelry making, kids' crafts and home decor projects such as faux finishing and mosaic projects, according to multiple vendors at the HIA show. Flat or declining in sales are supplies for fashion sewing, needlecraft and artificial floral.

"We're seeing a big surge in yarn sales," said Alyson Bell, vp of national accounts for Coats & Clark. "Large, chunky yarns and large needles are extremely popular."

Knitting and crocheting are in vogue once again, according to yarn suppliers. Big sellers are bulky textured or faux fur yarns used to make fashionable scarves. Some craft retailers have even seen triple-digit sales increases in yarn, David Blumenthal, president of Lion Brand Yarn, told DSN Retailing Today at the show.

In jewelry making, customers are showing greater interest in charms, words or phrases and upscale beads, such as crystals, said Joanne Allman, a representative for Darice. Fashion trends and licenses are driving interest in sewing-related crafts, such as a line of decorative trims from Wrights licensed to the "Trading Spaces" television show and snap-on charms for clothes or accessories from Prym Dritz.

Another trend affecting the craft industry is the so-called Red Hat Society social club that encourages women older than 50 to celebrate life by wearing red hats and purple clothing. Stickers, scrapbooking supplies and craft accessories celebrating the older female are already showing up in craft aisles as a hot category.

Crafts targeting children is another strong category, according to vendors. Dan Schafer, a sales representative for Craft House, said this segment has been growing 5% annually, with some of the latest products geared toward scrapbooking.

"It really had an explosion [in growth] the last couple of years, and the challenge is to come up with new stuff," said Schafer, with retailers demanding less costly craft kits under $10. Among new items from Craft House is a treasure box that is colored and then baked, while RoseArt has embraced the scrapbooking fad with a new line targeting tween girls, called Scrapfabulous, coming out this summer.

As has been the case for several years now, home decor trends continue to impact the growth of the hobby market. Projects using faux finish effects to redecorate walls or home accents are popular, including trendy antiqued or distressed effects.

Home accents adorned with miniature beads or feathers are also popular, and new products are coming out that make crafting such items even easier, such as Liquid Beadz from DecoArt. This product features miniature beads suspended in a glue base that can be brushed on craft projects. Another innovative item from DecoArt is Paper Perfect, a glue-like substance that is spread across a surface and then dries to resemble handmade paper; a definite crossover from the scrapbooking fad.

No longer content with throwing baby pictures and diplomas in a box in the attic, crafters are organizing their keepsakes and memorabilia so they can display them. And you thought home movies were bad.

Paper crafting/card making

When you care enough to make the very best. Homemade cards and paper are catching on. In fact, Irving, Texas-based crafts retailer Michaels has introduced a card making department in all of its 731 stores.

Knitting

The granddaughters of feminism say it's okay to knit again. This hobby is increasingly popular with female twenty- and thirtysomethings, partially due to celebrities like Julia Roberts and Sarah Jessica Parker admitting their love for it. The needles also double nicely as self-defense devices.

Soap/candle/body care product making Don't blame the economy. People are making their own personal products these days - not to save money, but because they enjoy it!

OUT

Cross stitching

Blame it on Baby Boomers' deteriorating vision or an overload of proverb pillows, but the art of hand embroidery is slowly fading.

Glass crafting

Making suncatchers out of tinted crystals and glitter just isn't the craze it was 15 years ago. Go figure.

Doll making

Even big girls get tired of playing with dolls eventually. For many crafters, the desire to make their own porcelain and cloth dolls is on the decline. No word from the voodoo doll industry.

Online crafts

With only a graphic design program and a color printer, crafters can make everything from refrigerator magnets to labels for wine bottles. Problem is, they're not.

ELMWOOD PARK, N.J. - The boards of directors of the Hobby Industry Association (HIA) and the Association of Crafts & Creative Industries (ACCI) have voted to unify the craft and hobby industries under the leadership of a new association. The combined association, to be named the Craft & Hobby Association, will begin operating in February 2004, following the 63rd Annual HIA Convention & Trade Show in Dallas. Recognizing that the two organizations are fundamentally similar, with like member bases and mission statements, the ACCI and HIA boards agreed that as a unified ...

he Craft & Hobby Association estimated in 2003 that in 80% of U.S. households at least one member participated in arts and crafts activities. The majority of those crafters don't seem to be buying from catalogs, however. According to New York-based media brokerage services firm ParadyszMatera, during the second quarter of 2005 the 12-month active universe for the arts and crafts catalog market was just 1.77 million, or 1% of all consumer catalog buyers available for list rental or exchange.

R/C hobbies can have a wide variety of models, and kits. I recommend starting out small at a beginners level vehicle. Something that is not so expensive. Then as your experience grows with interest you can work your way up to the more expensive vehicles. I would not want to see you buy the most expensive airplane and then crash it 5 minutes into your first flight. So make sure you think it through before your first purchase.

R/C hobbies most popular models are trucks and cars. Their are many different types of these vehicles. Some come in kits ready to run. Others need to be fully put together. Also they have two types of power choices. There is electric which all you have to do is charge your battery packs and plug and go. There is also the gas powered. Which has a lot more work involved in running the vehicles. It involves buying fuel, and also involves keeping the motors in tune. Gas requires more experience in keeping the motors running properly. Also when the temperature and climate changes you have to keep tuning the motors to keep them running properly. But on the other hand electric is more simple for beginners. I highly recommend starting out electric powered vehicles.

Also you must take in consideration what you want your vehicle for. Are you planning on using it on or off road. If you are up to a bit bigger challenge you could purchase a airplane or helicopter. From experience I have found that the helicopter is a bit more of a challenge to fly than the airplane.

So hopefully after you read this article you will be able to make a better choice on your purchase of R/C vehicles.

Tracing your family ancestry has been around for many generations. Originally, it was done by the matriarch of the family, as she recorded the births, marriages and deaths of all of her relatives and close friends. Frequently, these records were kept in the family Bible or a scrapbook. Fortunately, many of these books have been passed down from generation to generation. If you're lucky, you may be in possession of one of those rare books today. When we first start out researching our genealogy, we frequently start with these rare books as our initial source.

These books provide an excellent source of information about our families. In many cases, we find not only important facts about our family we also find newspaper clippings, old photographs, wedding invitations, and family reunion invitations to name a few. These items provide us with important clues and valuable stories that bring our family history to life. Take the time to review each of these items to understand and properly document them.

Once we have recorded all of the information that is contained in these books, we start interviewing close family members for other information that they might have. It is a good idea to take your family tree charts and notes with you to these interviews. The notes you've made will help your family visualize the branch of the family tree that you are tracing. Be sure and display all of the source information that you have found to date, during the interview. This information may help trigger new stories and additional details that will further enhance your understanding of your family's past. Be sure to ask for any additional scrapbooks, articles, old photographs that you might borrow to study in more detail. Make sure you put this information in a separate file, carefully marked so that you can return it to the original owner, exactly as it was provided.

As soon as possible, after the interview, review the stories, documents, and photographs to try and incorporate this information into your family tree research files. Take copies of all of the documents and photographs, and clearly mark on the back of each copy the source of the document, the date it was obtained, and the condition of the original document. These details will be invaluable when you revisit this information, months and even years from now.

As much as we would like to believe that genealogy is the discovery of important and influential ancestors, it is in reality, a complex process of uncovering and documenting historical facts and stories. However, as dry as that sounds, it can also be a very rewarding and challenging hobby. Knowing that we are discovering our family's history and heritage and putting it into context for future generations makes this a very worthwhile project that our family will be able to cherish forever.

Chess is an ancient game that was once even played using human pieces by people of royal birth. Those days are long gone of course and at present, man-made pieces are used in the game. Chess pieces are perhaps one of the loveliest and fascinating objects throughout man's history. Because of the amount of time and effort expended in crafting these objects, it's no wonder why chess pieces are fast becoming a favorite collectible item.

If you're interested in collecting chess pieces as a hobby, here are several tips to help you build an impressive collection.

Ordinary Is A Must
A standard set of chess pieces is a must for any collection because this will serve as the basis of your collection. Standard sets vary in price because of the quality of craftsmanship and the type of materials used.

Speaking of materials, it would make your collection increase in size and variety if you can manage to get a hold of chess pieces made from various materials. The most common material used for making chess pieces is of course wood. Popular among chess piece collectors are pieces made from glass because of its beautiful appearance. Others manufacturers use metals, crystals, plastic, rocks, and other minerals to create chess pieces and having one set of each material will definitely make your collection inspiring.

If however you're determined to make your chess piece collection incomparable, you should therefore consider purchasing a chess set that makes use of bejewelled chess pieces. Yes, they do exist but they can only be yours for a very high price!

Kiddie Chess Sets
Chess pieces specifically produced for entertaining kids are always an excellent addition to anyone's chess piece collection. Kiddie chess sets vary according to price, design, and size. Jumbo chess pieces are produced, for instance, to prevent them from being perceived as bite-sized food by toddlers. There are other toy manufacturers which use famous cartoon and comic characters for chess pieces. If you have a favorite animated character, you should definitely scour the marketplace for any possible chess set using its image.

Movie Chess Sets
The world famous Star Wars enterprise of George Lucas, for instance, has its own chess sets and it's selling in the market for a considerable price. Of course, it would take you some time to figure out which character works as the rook, the bishop, and so forth, but that's another story, right? What you're after is the beauty of the chess pieces used and not how efficient they are for playing the game.

Commemorative Chess Sets
This particular type of chess set is difficult to find in the marketplace, but rest assured that obtaining one such set is a definite plus for your collection. Commemorative chess sets are, as the name itself suggests, made to commemorate a particular occasion ' which may be politically significant or signifying an important event in a company's history.

Themed Chess Sets
A chess set manufactured using a World War II theme, for instance, will make use of various notable figures in the Second World War. Another chess set could be made to mirror the hierarchy in Hollywood. If you have a particular theme that you're interested in but you can't find in the market, consider making one yourself or enlisting a craftsman to do it for you.

Collecting chess pieces can be certainly a costly hobby, but if you derive genuine pleasure from it, you're sure to think of it as money well spent.

The function of a sewing machine presser foot is to help guide the material under the needle and over the face plate. Different feet can serve special sewing needs. For instance, using a zipper foot when inserting a zipper can really improve the outcome of your zipper efforts.

Many machines have both screw on presser feet and snap on presser feet available. Singer sewing machines use a slant shank adapter to make the most use of the newer snap on system. These 7 tips will have you changing your presser feet in no time and getting your projects done faster.

1. Many machines come with a general purpose presser foot in place when purchased. You will probably be able to use this foot for both straight and regular zig-zag stitching. Check your instructions to make sure.

2. Always be sure to raise the needle to the highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you before changing your presser feet. This keeps the needle safely raised and the thread in proper tension.

3. Raise the presser foot with the lifter, usually at the back of your machine.

4. While it may seem intuitive to pull on the presser foot to remove it, you actually push the tow of the foot (the part closest to you when facing the machine) up. It will snap off the shank.

5. If you're only changing the foot briefly, keep the first foot somewhere on your work surface easy to find for replacing.

6. Place the new foot under the center of the shank, and lower the presser foot lever. Fit the shank over the center pin on the presser foot as you lower.

7. Push the presser foot screw down firmly, and you'll hear the presser foot snap into place. Don't lift the presser foot into the shank, as your fingers will be moving in the direction of the needle. Be sure to just lower the shank and press down for quick, easy, safe presser foot changes.

Practice this a few times and you'll be switching presser feet a lot more quickly than you could make a pie. Use a narrow stitch foot to "stitch in the ditch", use a zipper foot for applying zippers, use a special open toe foot for special embroidery applications. You'll have more fun sewing when use the right foot for the right job.

Growing up in the 1980's, some of my favorite toys belonged to the 3 and 3/4 inch tall G.I. Joe action figure line. After purchasing a few vintage Joes on Ebay as an adult, I enjoyed the nostalgia that they provided and decided to start collecting again. Ebay provided an endless supply, but I had one problem. How much were they actually worth? An Ebay auction alone is a good barometer of an item's value, but was I getting a good deal on a particular auction, or was I overpaying? I was shocked to see some unopened figures selling for hundreds of dollars.

I searched all over the internet for a GI Joe price guide, but could not find one. I ended up buying a collector's book and watching thousands of auctions to get a feel for what individual G.I. Joe figures and vehicles were worth. Not only did I learn a great deal about the 1980's Joes, I also became educated about the figures and vehicles sold from the early 1990's -- all the way up to the toys being sold today.

Being a toy collector is not only a fun hobby for thousands of people, it is also a great investment. Keeping in mind that the value of anything is totally dependant on what someone is willing to pay, and that any investment involves risk, toys have always been popular collectors' items and usually increase in value over time. They remind us of pleasant childhood memories, or the memories of a son or daughter's early years. A few things that add special value to Hasbro's G.I. Joe line are: a following which sometimes nears cult status, respectable quality, and a longevity that spans over 40 years.

If the joy of collecting is the only motivation, the 3 and 3/4 inch GI Joe and Cobra forces provide plenty of things to do. There are a wide variety of fascinating figures and vehicles to collect. There is the thrill of the search for rare variations and sets. A simple joy is displaying the highly poseable collectibles; and if figures and vehicles are broken or incomplete, they can usually be fixed or completed. There are sub-hobbies to explore such as custom figure creation and diorama displays. And finally, a toy collection is one that can be shared with one's children or friends, and eventually passed on for generations.

These days many beginners enter the hobby with a ARTF(almost ready to fly) model, they are often reluctant to build there first model airplane, thinking the building will be difficult, the tools complex and they will need a large area to set up a workshop and will need to invest a large sum of money.

Nothing could be further from the truth, there are advanced modelers who have devoted entire rooms or have erected workshops in which to enjoy there hobby, but the basic model airplane can easily be built in a corner of any home, I personally have built many models myself on a board on the kitchen table.

When I built my first model all those years ago I did not have a clue,It was built on a old dining room table without a building board and the parts where held in place while the glue (balsa cement in those days) dried by window glazing tacks knocked in with a small hammer, luckily as I said the table was old and I lived to tell the tale,

However I hope this article will guide a beginner through the setting up of a simple but adequately equipped model workshop,sufficient for the construction of most model kits and many scratch built models as well,Where possible I will show how some common household items and a few basic tools available in the larger DIY store can substitute for more expensive modeling tools

Where specialized tools are available or desirable, hopefully this article will help in choosing which of several tools will give the biggest value

The Workspace
The minimum space needed to build the average R/C trainer is a area of about 5 feet by 5 feet,While it might be useful to have a larger area, this space will be adequate to construct most free flight,control line and radio controlled model airplanes, a place near a electrical socket and well lighted being the main points to consider, also it needs to be somewhere where it would not be a problem if wood scraps,sanding dust or glue ended up on the floor and can easily be cleaned up, A large carpet remnant or a old rug under the worktable would prove helpful here.

The Building Board
A good flat building board is the most important and basic tool, fortunately, it is also one of the least expensive. Although there are factory made building boards available, thousands of models have been built on a standard drawing board . A good store bought alternative is a cheap cork faced notice board from a local store.

To keep the building board straight and free of warps, bows or twists, the building board should be laminated to a sheet of 3/4" Medium Density Fiberboard ("MDF") Ply or Melamine faced chipboard could also be used. Such a laminated building board can be easily picked up and moved out of sight if the workspace needs to be cleared for other activities. This is what I use personally glued together with PVA wood glue and screwed around the frame, the frame can be removed from the notice board if you wish,should it get in the way.

A worktable will also be needed to set the building board upon. Many modelers have discovered that a card table set up in a corner is a perfectly adequate workbench for building smaller models. Others have used a kitchen or dining room table, but this can be a source of annoyance for other family members. Ideally, there will be a corner of a room where a workbench can be set up on a semi-permanent basis, and if there is room, a hollow core door resting on strips of wood screwed to the wall makes a very nice, sturdy and stable modeling workbench.

If a built in workbench is not possible, but space is available, setting a door on top of a couple of trestles works well

If a hollow core door is used as a bench top, be aware that the quality of these doors varies. The cheapest of the hollow core doors have a cardboard honeycomb core, which does not adequately support the outer veneer layers. It is best to shop around for a better quality door with a wood lattice core. These tend to stay flat over time. Ideally, the worktable should be sturdy enough that a person can sit on it without damaging it, but with a portable worktable this may not be possible.

If a permanent workshop is set up, an L or U shaped set of work tables along two or three adjoining walls makes an excellent family craft center where two or more people can work together, or on separate projects. These tables can be made out of hollow core doors or doubled layers of particle board or MDF, supported by wall strips and 2"x2" softwood legs.

The workbench or table must be stable and provide a flat, clear space where the building board can be set up and left undisturbed.

Basic Tools
To get started with nearly every model airplane kit, some basic tools will be needed. These are the tools a builder must have before starting to build.

Dressmaker's Pins

Dressmaker's pins will be needed to pin parts together and to pin them to the building board. They come in several sizes, and in packages of 50 or 100. The smaller ones will be better for pinning the parts together. Bigger ones will work better for pinning large parts down to the building board. Since they are quite cheap, the best thing to do is get a package each of large and small.

Hobby Knife or Utility Knife

Most of the cutting required to build the average R/C trainer can be done with a hardware store utility knife. The STANLEY 99E retractable utility knife comes with enough spare blades to finish a plane. Both the knife and the blades are readily available at variety and hardware stores.

An X-Acto knife handle and a supply of #11 blades is nice to have as a second knife, but the blades are more expensive and sometimes hard to find. Swan-Morton produce a flat handle modeling knife that wont rool away and both the knife and blades are reasonably cheap, Modern kits have many pre-cut parts, so an official hobby knife is not mandatory, and the utility knife will come in handy for many household chores as well. A cutting board will also be needed and usally I use a hardboard offcut

Sandpaper

An assortment of sandpaper will be needed. an assortment of five sheets that has Very Fine (220) Fine (150) and Medium (100). One of these packages and a package of coarse (60) should be bought.

A good sanding block can be made from a piece of scrap softwood

Ruler

A twelve-inch ruler is a necessity. A grade school ruler is sufficient, but a good quality steel ruler is much preferred. It is also very useful to have a steel yardstick, which does double duty as an accurate straightedge. An architect’s or engineer’s scale, the triangular kind, will come in handy for later models.

Clamps

It is possible to buy clamps esecialy for model use,but for the most part you can get by with a good supply of rubber bands and some clothes pegs

Glue

A stock of several types of glue should be kept. These are the types commonly and traditionally used for model building

PVA

PVA or woodworking glue works very well for building model airplanes. It has the advantage of being water based and therefore less toxic. Also, PVA Glue is slow drying and less likely to cause warps and does a good job of gluing the woods used in model airplanes. For most purposes, white PVA glue is stronger than the woods used, and is easy to clean up. The yellow glues tack up and dry more quickly, but they are more expensive and more difficult to clean up.

Epoxy Glue

Thirty-Minute Epoxy Glue is traditionally used to glue firewalls to fuselages, install landing gear mounts and join together wing halves. It is fuel proof and very strong.

Cyanoacrylate Glue

Cyanoacrylate glues are sometimes called CA or Super Glue. CA comes in three varieties; regular, sometimes called thin, medium, and thick. CA is very fast setting, and strong. It is also relatively expensive.

To use CA, the joint must be fabricated very carefully, and the parts are clamped or held tightly together. A drop of CA is placed on the joint, which is almost instantly welded together. This is convenient, however, if is care is not take, the glue will penetrate through the pores of the wood and stick clamps or fingers to the model airplane.

CA gives off a fine, smoky mist that can really sting eyes and noses. These fumes can cause severe allergic reactions. Some people build up a heightened chemical sensitivity to CA over time. It is important to have good air circulation in the building area if any possibly toxic glue is used, but this is especially important with CA.

Covering Iron

Most beginning modelers will cover airplanes with plastic iron on, heat shrink film. This is the cheapest and fastest way to get a nice, fuel proof finish on models. If a lot of planes are going to be built, the builder will want to get a specially made hobby iron and also a hobby heat gun, however, a plain laundry iron can be used in a pinch, and is fine for the first plane. Inexpensive irons can be bought at a thrift store by those on a tight budget. I personaly use a small traveling iron obtained fro Argos

Secondary Building Tools There are some other tools that may be needed to finish an airplane. They may not be needed right away, but they will come in handy before construction is complete.

Combination Square

A six-inch combination square is very useful to line up the pieces as everything is glued together. A combination square has a steel ruler that slides back and forth. It will help in making accurate 45-degree and 90-degree corners, and to mark out repeated measurements. If a six-inch combination square cannot be found, a 12-inch can be used but this will be awkward to use on model airplanes.

Protractor

The plain, school variety of protractor in the familiar semi-circular shape is all that is required for laying out and measuring angles.

Compass or Dividers

The school type compass is adequate for laying out circles and arcs. However, a set of good quality wing dividers also does a nice job of transferring measurements from drawings to wood when building more advanced models.

Drafting Triangles.

Although these are not strictly necessary, they are very helpful to line up parts and for making sketches of assemblies. Standard 45-degree and 30-60 degree triangles are very useful in all types of layouts.

Razor Saw

The razor saw is another tool that is not strictly necessary, A razor saw makes much faster straight or angle cuts in balsa and hardwood stock.you can get a razor saw blade that fits the STANLEY knife mentioned above

Coping Saw

A coping saw is also not strictly necessary, but for sawing out irregular shapes in thick balsa or in aircraft plywood, it is much faster than using a knife. .

Screw driver

Both straight and Phillips tips will be needed. Small Allen keys may also be needed, Over time, builders will probably acquire a set of miniature or jeweler’s screwdrivers and other miniature tools for fastening nuts, bolts and screws.

Pliers

A set of heavy-duty pliers does a variety of jobs in the model airplane shop, from bending landing gear to forming push-rod ends. The best quality sets will have a diagonal cutter that is strong enough to cut music wire up to 3/32".

Long Nose Pliers

Long nose pliers are very useful for reaching into tight model airplane spaces.

Vice

Everyone needs one good vice. For models, a small machinist’s or blacksmith's vice with three inch jaws and a small anvil is great for forming and shaping light metal parts. I have found a good source of model tools to be Squires Tools ,100 London Road, Bognor Regis,

West Sussex, PO21 1DDwho supply tools for both models and crafts who can supply everything listed here plus lots more

Drill

A drill is very nearly a necessity, but will probably only be needed for a few holes on the first airplane. It is placed in this category because the builder suffice by borrowing one. Eventually, however, the builder will want to get a variable speed reversing drill. A corded type will work, as will the higher voltage cordless drills,but a small low voltage cordless one is very convenient and is designed for the modeller and craftsperson,. Hand powered drills will work too, but good ones are getting hard to find, and are awkward to use and quite expensive.

A 13 drill bit assortment, in sizes from 1/16" to 1/4" will probably handle every hole on the first airplane.

You may at a later date depending on your circumstances wish to add power tools and Taps and a Tap wrench, Dies,a palm sander and so on. One item that as become quite popular is the Dremel Moto-Tool,these hand held motors can drive a variety of attachments from drill bits to cut of wheels,grinders and sanding attachments and are ideal for the model maker

A builder's budget guides how the shop is set up but many championship models have been built on card tables with a minimum kit of hand tools.

The art of paper folding has been a part of many cultures for a very long time, but it is the story of a little Japanese girl named Sadako that really brought origami into the public’s eye. The story of this dying girl and her quest to fold 1000 paper cranes in order to receive her heart’s desire, as per the Japanese legend, has been transfigured into many books and movies. The paper crane has become the most widely known symbol for origami and has motivated many people not only to learn about this beautiful art form, but also to learn how to make origami. This article offers some tips on how anyone can started making origami, and for those who already have some knowledge, how to further your origami skills.

The word origami comes from the Japanese words oru (to fold) and kami (paper), and although not all styles of paper folding originated in Japan, they are now all united under this title. Origami is defined as the creation of art through various folds and crease patterns. There are a few basic folds that are used repeatedly in most patterns, and it is essential to learn these basic folds in order to learn how to make origami. The models are created from square sheets of paper that are sold in various different colors and sizes. It is also possible to find foil-backed origami paper, two-toned origami paper, and patterned origami paper. The objects created through origami range from the simple, such as paper hats, to the extremely intricate, such as models of famous buildings or animals in motion.

If you’re looking to learn how to make origami, then the best place to start is at your local library or bookstore. There are many books available that range from very basic for those who are just starting, to advanced, for those looking to expand their knowledge and skill in this art-form. These books are offered both according to your level and according to various themes. It is possible to find books containing animals, toys, holiday themed models, or even a mixture to satisfy any origami craving you may have. These books feature step-by-step instructions, and usually include diagrams, so that anyone should feel confident enough should they choose to learn how to make origami.

The internet is also a great source for tips on how to make origami. There are thousands of patterns online, as well as forums where you can ask questions and get answers from other origami aficionados around the world. Keep in mind that origami is complicated, so it’s natural to have questions or struggle with some of the patterns. If the diagrams and the forums aren’t enough to help you learn it’s also possible to find someone in your area who is knowledgeable about origami, or to find a class. There are many people around the world who are considered to be origami professionals, and these professionals are a great help in learning how to make origami.

Robert J. Lang, who resides in Alamo, California, is one such origami professional. In fact, he has been a full-time origami artist for thirty years now, and he is considered to be one of the world’s foremost authorities on origami. He has written many books and created many models, as well as helped to put forward theories of technical origami. Technical origami is a more complicated form of origami which works from a pattern of creases to create more complex models that appear more life-like than the traditional origami patterns. Although this may seem complex, it is definitely something to work towards after having learned the basics of how to make origami, and learning from someone like Robert, who does origami full time, might be just the thing to jump-start your appreciation for this art form, as well as your skill as an origami artist.

Just the other day I was using my camera to take pictures at a popular photographic scene. I looked to my left and right and noticed that there were a lot of tourists as well as a professional photographers. All of them were holding various types of cameras from small compact ones that you can put into your pocket to huge gigantic ones which require a carrying bag almost the size of my luggage. The site of the Niagara Falls was so awesome that during the day and throughout the night, there are people there to watch the spectacular and majestic sight.

While the camera I was holding onto was not as small as those compact sized camera, it is nothing compared to those professionals. You will know they are professionals, by looking at the amount gadgets sticking out of a camera. For instance a man to my left, had a huge tripod as tall as my shoulders with remote controls stuck to its handle and at the lens of the camera, there sticks out 3 feet of lenses so huge, they were almost as long as my arm!

I was almost intimidated by the size of that camera that I almost forgot about the camera hanging around my neck. However after a short time, thinking of the troubles I've made just to reach here, I had better take a few shots back for memory. Though I envy the man with the huge array of camera equipment he possessed, I also wonder how much he must had spent on that thing. However if he was in a business in selling his pictures, he had better have good quality and beautiful shots.

I took the courage and when ahead to ask that man what it takes to get a good shot and what his camera can do that mine can't. This is what he told me, a tripod will hold the camera steady, the remote control can control the camera to take shots, to zoom in and out, and to adjust the focus so to minimize the chances of tipping or distorting the angle of the camera. The lenses sticking out, can help to enhance the picture as compared to the digital zoom on a digital camera. Though those lenses may cause a few hundred bucks apiece, it is well worth the investment when photography your hobby.

While the majority of us will be contented with pictures that we take with our camera; though they may be worse looking than our everyday postcards; those of you who likes quality photos, buying those camera equipments will not be a waste of money, but an investment for your photo album.

Does the mention of photography seem hard for you? You obviously haven't tried digital photography yet! Taking photographs is fun, however taking professional photographs one has to consider the lightings, the exposure, the shutter speed, and even how stable and steady is one’s hand holding the camera still. If questioning a professional, you will hear many terms such as red eye effects, white balance, mega pixels, macro and micro pictures, and much more!

So how does digital photography outdo film photography? In many ways! Digital photography has done most of the automation. For instance it has automatic focusing, lightings, and exposure. No more fiddling with knobs and buttons for those new to photography. Yet there are many settings for the advanced users too. Advanced users can adjust the lightings, reduce the shutter speed and even purposely make a picture have blurred motion effects!

For those of you who like to play with lightings, it will be a challenge which you will learn much of them outdoors. You should keep the optical settings between shots so that your lightings will always stay the same. Something you should know about lightings is the timing. When you taking photos, try to take photos at the same time of the day with the similar kind of lightings. It'll work great if the weather conditions is stable. For instance if today is a bright sunny day and tomorrow is a cloudy day, your picture will have a vast distinct difference and the major factor could be your lightings. Image manipulation software such as Photoshop could do some light effects however nothing can be compared to an original good shot.

Have you ever tried to take a shot in close range? You might know of the function call macro however after taking a shot, the flash brightens up the picture so bright, the whole screen is white in color. You must choose a right angle, get a different light source, or point your flash in a different direction which will reflect on to the close proximity object. It is no doubt very hard to achieve it. For this reason, macro shots should always be taken in highly lit environment for instance daylight.

In conclusion, a simple things such as lightings can play a major role in your journey as a photographer. It takes a lot of practice to achieve good and high quality pictures. The concepts that you learn from film photography can be applied into digital photography. All you need to do is adjust your self to the new settings found in digital photography camera.

1. Buying Timber

So you’re going to need timber but before you go out and buy any let me just say this. We must remember that one of the most important factors on building a case for a longcase clock is the timber, and we must remember when these clocks were made in the late seventeenth early eighteenth century the timbers that were used would have been air dried, meaning the tree was cut down and left to rest for a period of time before being converted into planks. This allowed for water to escape from the cells.

The planks were then put in stick and left to air dry until the moisture content came down to 16%, which took approximately one inch per year. The timber could then be used without the fear of the timber cupping, twisting or moving.

Unfortunately today with our centrally heated houses and double-glazed windows, furniture made with 16 % moisture content would cup, split and bend. Therefore timber to be used in furniture in todays world should be kiln dried to 10 or 11% moisture content.

To find kiln dried timbers at a reasonable price is becoming more difficult as most of our furniture industry has disappeared, and the furniture is of the mass produce pine type,or manufactured with man made boards and coming in flat pack. There are very few furniture makers making hard wood quality furniture in this country today, therefore the demand for kiln dried hardwoods is very low and is not financially viable to the big timber merchants whose main market is in the building industries and mainly concentrate on construction timber. (Softwoods).

2. So I always convert my timber as follows

1 Buy the timber kiln dried at 12% moisture content, and 1-inch thick planks were possible.

2 Cut the planks to the required lengths allowing an inch or two at each end allowing for any dipping on the planer.

3 Put the timber through the planer, to clean and square.

(If you don’t have circular saw and planer / thicknesser your local joiner will be able to convert the timber for you).

4 Then stack in the house best place I’ve found is under the bed. (Preferably when the lady of the house is shopping)

This will allow the timber to move, and any twisting or cupping can be corrected later.

I know this may seem a lot of messing about and time wasting but believe me this will save you a lot of work and heart ache and embarrassment, especially if the clock is for somebody else, you don’t want a member of your family or God forbid a customer to ring you up to tell you the door on the hood or trunk of there beloved clock won’t close because its bent. Trust me this can be a nightmare, I’ve had to bring clocks back and had to build new doors. It’s very hard on the pocket and pride, so do the job correctly from the start and as in all crafts, if the foundations are done correctly the top will shine.

3. Movement and Dial.

One of the biggest mistakes I have seen people make over the years when they have been building a case for a clock is to make the case before having the movement and dial. I think this is because the emphasis is on the case as a piece of furniture and not as a piece to tell the time. Cost is also a factor. There is a tendency to think I will make the case first and then buy the movement and dial. For example when a tutor at a local furniture college rang me to ask if I could come down and help as a number of students had chosen to make longcase clocks for there yearly project. They had spent many hours making some beautiful cases with intricate stringing and veneering, they were extremely good cases. But now found the movements and dials they had bought would not fit. Unfortunately this usually means major readjustment as it did in this particular case.So always have your dial and movement before you start building your case. I know this should be common sense but you would be surprised how many people try it.

The process is always the same when we make a clock case, we draw the clock projecting out from the dial measurements, through the mask and through the hood door and to the hood, which gives us the correct width for the clock. Then the measurement is taken from the front of the dial to the back-cock on the movement to give use the correct depth and proportions for the clock.

Making a longcase clock is probably one of the most gratifying project you can ever take on and once in place will be a source of satisfaction and pride for you for many years to come as every one who see it will view it with grate admiration and the clock it’s self will become a much loved and cherished part of the family for generations to come as grandfather clocks do.

Shrink wrap is a product which can make things airtight and it also doubles up as a material for containing things. However the shrink wrap sheets after being secured can be shrunk faster with a heat gun. Heat guns increases the speed of the shrinking process especially if it is added on with the special nozzle.

Shrink wrap though not very popular in households is an extremely handy product and is used for commercial purpose to a large extent. Retailers regularly use shrink wrap sheets to wrap gift baskets and other items, giving them a different look. The popularity and use of this product can be increased in households with a heat gun which makes work easier.

Ordinary fruit or gift baskets can be given a touch of sophistication by simply packaging them in shrink wrap. It is cost-effective and beautifies the gift baskets, homemade soaps or crafts etc. making it the ideal pick for packaging. This cheap alternative has led many retailers of small market goods to use heat guns and shrink wrap extensively.

A hassle free method of shrink wrapping presents or keeping items clean for storage is by using the heat gun. Using the heat gun over the surface of the shrink wrap after it is secured causes it to shrink and helps in building a tough covering. Additional layers of shrink wrap can be applied to increase the toughness and durability of the covering.

You can experience the benefits of shrink wrap with your heat gun as it makes the process of keeping things clean, easier and cheaper. Heat guns thus necessitate the accessibility and user friendliness of shrink wrapping making it more popular with small businesses or homes.

Although there are advanced drawing programs you can use on computers today, we still use the old method we were taught in college i.e. using a drawing board, clips, and T-square. You may laugh but it the cheapest and fastest way, and works very well for us, working on the principle of keep it simple.

1. Construction

Take some time out to look at styles and construction of cases for the period that matches your movement and dial. If you are not lucky enough to be able to get access to any and to have hands on and get a close look, you will have to scan as many books as possible. It goes with out saying a good source of pictures can be found at your local library.

2. Keep Your Eyes Open

Museums and stately homes give a great opportunity to get close up and have a good scan. A friend of mine once asked a stately home permission to photograph and take the dimensions from a table they had so he could make a copy, and believe it or not they said yes. I’ve never tried it but it might work for a clock case.

3. Auction Houses

Let’s not forget the old auction houses these can be a great source for research. Get the catalogue for any photographs, and then get yourself down to the auction on viewing day and you can then get a close look at the style with its veneering, stringing and all its decorative features, and also look inside to see how the case was constructed.

Once you have drawn up the case you are going to make, with as much detail as you can put on it, you can then compile your cutting list.

Listing all the parts you will have to make to finished size, you can then calculate the exact amount of timber you will need to buy from the timber merchant and order the veneers and stringing or inlay if necessary. It’s also a good time to source and purchase the fittings you will use on the case i.e. hinges, finials, patera and column caps.

A great book that covers clock case drawing and construction that I can recommend is "Making and Repairing Wooden clock cases" By V.J. Taylor & H.A.Babb.

When you look at your figurine, what do you see? Do you see just a figurine or just an object? If so, I invite you to take a new look. I suggest you see your figurine as art.

Why art you may ask? Because, in fact, that is what it is. But in order to see your figurine as art you must first understand what art is. If you were to look up the word “art” in a dictionary you would find various definitions. One of the definitions that I found in The Merriam Webster Dictionary was, “the use of skill and imagination in the production of things of beauty; also works so produced”.

From the above definition you should have no problem in acknowledging that your figurine is art! But to further clarify, permit me to give you my interpretation of the word.

Simply stated, “art is anything of beauty that is produced that bear resemblance to or has imitation of its model”. It is important to realize that art (that which is produced) may have an exact resemblance to or an imagined resemblance to its model. Equally important to keep in mind is that beauty is in the eye of the interpreter.

Can you think of a more perfect definition of a figurine than the one just given for art? A figurine is a thing of beauty (in someone’s eye). A figurine has resemblance (in someone’s mind). And a figurine has imitation (it mimics its model). Beauty + resemblance + imitation = art (or figurine).

When I view a figurine as art, I see the figurine in a whole new perspective. It gives me the ability to see the figurine beyond the object that it is and to see it in the essence of that which it represents to me.

If you have never viewed your figurine as art I strongly encourage you to do so. In a sense, it gives you an opportunity to become the artist of the art. It allows you to use your imagination to produce the beauty in the art as you see it. It grants you the opportunity to determine the resemblance of the model from your perspective. But more than that, it will permit you to connect with your emotions and experience the imitation of the art as it relates to you.

So, if you have not done so, go ahead. Give your figurine a new look. The look of art!

Polymer Clay is taking crafters to new artistic heights. It doesn’t matter what your craft is or your medium of choice- crafters are learning new ways every day to incorporate this versatile clay into their craft.

Polymer Clay comes in every color imaginable, including awesome metallic and pearlescent colors.

There are several different types of clays to choose from, some a little stiffer than others. So you’ll want to experiment to find the one you prefer to work with. If you want to get serious about using your versatile clay, several tools are available to help you design and make that perfect piece that you are after.

A smooth work surface and a rolling pin are a must! If you buy the stiffer clay, you’ll want to invest in a pasta or clay- conditioning machine. The embellishments you can use with polymer clay are endless: push molds, knives, sculpting tools, drill, sandpaper, paint, rubber stamps, needle tools, etc…

Be sure that no matter what type of clay you buy, that you condition (work with it, running it through a pasta machine, rolling, etc…) the clay thoroughly. This not only makes it easier to work with, but releases PVC particles that strengthen the clay during baking- keeping it from cracking during hardening.

Always follow the manufacturer’s directions exactly during baking.

Some great tips for polymer clay enthusiasts are included below:

· Never attempt to work on a wooden surface. The texture and particles from the wood get mixed into your clay and affects the color. I always tape plain white computer paper down on my work area to work with the clay on.

-Orange Kitty

· I use an old wooden “Lazy Susan” covered with wax paper (taped securely on the bottom). The work in progress can then be turned easily without unnecessary handling or fingerprints on finished sculptures. Old dental tools, wooden toothpicks sanded down to a rounded edge and make-up sponges work well as tools.

-Maggie Meyers

· Empty egg cartons are great for storing small balls of clay. I wrap them in wax paper, they are easy to locate and the lid keeps them from drying out. To varnish small beads, I put them on toothpicks and stick them into a block of soft clay like Sculpy III. I use a rolling plastic container with 5 drawers that I purchased at an office supply store to store all my clay, beads, powders, etc. That way I can roll it into the family room and watch TV with my family without making multiple trips to my workroom. I covered empty small mayonnaise and jam jars with bright polymer clay designs to hold all my tools. To keep track of my colors, I keep a small notebook, which I glue a slice of each cane I create and also make a note of how I blended the colors. I also keep a photo album of each design in case I want to make it again."

-Mary Jenkins

· I am a newbie to poly clays. I ran out of wax paper when I first discovered the clay about a month ago and I found that freezer paper works very well as a surface that can be moved around and even baked on. But I prefer to put the pieces to be baked on parchment paper. I can use it over and over and I don't have to worry about contaminating a cookie sheet!"

-Karen

· I use my pasta machine to do all of my blending. I set it to #1 and send each color through it until it's softer, then I add layers of the colors I want to blend together. As each piece rolls out, I fold it in half and send it through again. It takes about 20 times to completely blend the colors, but I'm not able to knead the clay without arthritis pain, so it's worth it."

-MellybeanTC

· I have been using a coffee grinder (rummage sale stuff--about a buck!) to start to condition my clay. It works really well and is easier to clean than a small food processor. Makes crumbs that can be easily squished together and run through my pasta maker. "

-Liz

· I love using a stitch ripper. The round little ball end is great for making small holes, especially for nostrils! The pointed part is great for adding textures.

-Kelly Reynolds

· I had no tools when I bought my first box of clay. I didn't want to make an investment in tools, so I started making my own out of the clay. I used a clear plastic CD container to roll out various sizes of pencils. Some fat, some thin, some curved, with various size tips. After firing I sanded them to refine their surfaces if needed. I also rolled flat sheets of clay on different surfaces to make templates. I have acquired tools since, but the tools I make are my favorite.

-Susan Schlyer

· I found that clay won't stick to a quilter's cutting board, so I put a large one under a glass cutting board, leaving a margin of about 4" all the way around. This way I can easily measure the pieces of clay I need to cut, plus have all the space around the glass on which to place pieces of clay ready to cut, or that are already cut. The cutting board can be cleaned with alcohol when it gets dirty.

-Connie Okdie

Use these tips to enjoy and enhance your polymer clay experience. Remember, working with this versatile clay the sky is the limit ... so do what crafters do best, be creative!

Spring is a welcoming time of renewal, and what better way to welcome friends and family to your home than with a creative and personal spring wreath! Even better when you can make it for under $5! Here’s how…

Pick up supplies at your local dollar shop or discount store. You’ll need a grapevine or straw wreath base, a roll of ribbon, and various little decorative items.

Choose a theme for your wreath. I used inspiration as mine, but you could use gardening, Easter, sewing, children, nature, birds, dogs,tea party…the list is endless, use your imagination!

Decorative items need to be small so they can be wired or glued easily to the wreath base. I searched the scrapbooking section for some terrific themed items! Most craft stores have a “wood” aisle where they sell lots of wooden cutouts in various themes for as low as a quarter a piece!

Wrap your wreath with ribbon, and tie in the back or use a glue gun to secure. Next lay out your items on the wreath until you find a pleasing composition…it often looks best for things not to line up perfectly. Now add your focal items…mine were inspirational words that I wired on. You can either use floral wire, or do like I did and strip the paper from those twisty ties that come with your bread. Fill in with colorful background players…since mine was a springtime wreath about inspiration, I used birds and butterflies! Finally, tuck in a few floral picks to add that springtime style! No need to go buy expensive bunches, I just snipped these from some silk branches I already owned. You can also pick up little floral picks from the craft store.

Voila…easy, quick, and it may not be expensive, but it has so much personality, no one will notice!

Don’t overlook using those dollar shop wreaths on their own, tucked into bookshelves, leaned against mantels, or hanging as grouping on the wall.

Easter is on the door-step... Do you need any Easter crafts ideas to decorate your home quickly? My free Easter crafts ideas and projects are really practical, because they're so simple and you don't need any special accessories to make them.

You'll only need some glue, paint, scissors, felt, papers and your two hands to make these simple Easter crafts projects.

Easter paper craft using egg-boxes

You might think how is it possible to make decoration using egg-boxes. It's really simple and I think this is the most lovely Easter decoration on my site.

Take an hour or so, a paper egg-box, some felt, an egg boxes few other things and your creative two hands and create wonderful chickens!

The following two step-by-step guideline will explain you how to make them. Visit my site www.marcels-kid-crafts-com to see the pattern and the step-by-step pictures.

You'll need:

* egg-box (for the body and the wings)

* all purpose adhesive

* scissors

* red felt (for the crests)

* yellow cardboard (for the beak)

* feather (for the tail)

* white paper (for the eyes)

* black marker

* pen


The steps:
Print and cut the patterns out.
Outline the patterns.
Cut out pieces. (The wings are made of the lid of the egg-box.)
Cut the middle part, the peaks of the box.
Cut the bottom of the peak round as shown.
First, glue the two red felt pieces about the middle of the peak.
Next, glue the beak as shown and hold it for a few minutes.
Then, glue the edge of the first wing on the back of the chicken.
Do the same with the second wing.
Glue the two white eyes and draw two dots with the black marker.
Next, is the feather.
Glue it on the back of the chicken between the wings.
Hold it for a few minutes.
Finally, glue the crest on the top of the chicken and hold it until it stands firmly.
Wait 5-10 minutes until everything completely dried.

Dont't forget to have a look at the pictures!