Ebonizing - A Cheap Alternative To Using Ebony?
The idea of ebonizing is just like any other staining process in wood - really it's nothing more than applying colour to wood and waiting until some of it soaks in! In order to make it as even as possible we usually use a rag, sponge or brush, although some people immerse their wood entirely (which is OK for small pieces) and then we wait until it dries.
If you use water-based stains you may have to lightly sand after staining because water-based stains tend to raise the grain a little. It depends on your final finish and, of course, your personal preferences.
Here we're talking specifically about ebonizing - making the wood as near black as we can. There are commercial stains you can buy, and you can even use boot black (it's a wax polish, after all, although it doesn't soak in very well), but how about a stain you can make with things you almost certainly have lying around the house?
Here are those ingredients:
A jar (best if it has a plastic lid so it won't rust, but not vital) A piece of coarse steel wool or some old nails (not galvanized - it won't work) Some ordinary vinegar
That's the lot! Put the steel wool or nails in the jar, add enough vinegar to cover them and close the lid. Now just leave it for the vinegar to do it's work. Two or three days should be fine but you may want to experiment. Finally, strain the liquid through a cloth (or a coffee filter) so you don't have any particles and apply to some wood using your method of choice.
As you can see, this isn't rocket science, and varying the proportions of vinegar to metal will effect the stain as will the length of time it brews. The other thing to remember is that different woods will absorb the stain differently so you might need more than one application, and the colour will vary. Always follow the golden rule: test it on a scrap piece first. You'll also probably find that the wood will continue to change colour for a day or two, possibly longer, after you have stopped applying the stain. There's nothing you can do about this except be patient. There's unlikely to be any change a week after application.
I've experimented with wax as a final finish over the top, and with poly, both without problems. I haven't yet tried Danish or Tung oil, though I suspect they'll be fine. If in doubt, back to the golden rule again!
Unfortunately the method is a bit inconsistent so you'll find it very difficult to get two batches the same. Always make up enough for the job in hand in one go. If you want to be safe, go to the store and buy the stuff they've got there, but if you enjoy experimenting a bit this is great fun.
If you use water-based stains you may have to lightly sand after staining because water-based stains tend to raise the grain a little. It depends on your final finish and, of course, your personal preferences.
Here we're talking specifically about ebonizing - making the wood as near black as we can. There are commercial stains you can buy, and you can even use boot black (it's a wax polish, after all, although it doesn't soak in very well), but how about a stain you can make with things you almost certainly have lying around the house?
Here are those ingredients:
A jar (best if it has a plastic lid so it won't rust, but not vital) A piece of coarse steel wool or some old nails (not galvanized - it won't work) Some ordinary vinegar
That's the lot! Put the steel wool or nails in the jar, add enough vinegar to cover them and close the lid. Now just leave it for the vinegar to do it's work. Two or three days should be fine but you may want to experiment. Finally, strain the liquid through a cloth (or a coffee filter) so you don't have any particles and apply to some wood using your method of choice.
As you can see, this isn't rocket science, and varying the proportions of vinegar to metal will effect the stain as will the length of time it brews. The other thing to remember is that different woods will absorb the stain differently so you might need more than one application, and the colour will vary. Always follow the golden rule: test it on a scrap piece first. You'll also probably find that the wood will continue to change colour for a day or two, possibly longer, after you have stopped applying the stain. There's nothing you can do about this except be patient. There's unlikely to be any change a week after application.
I've experimented with wax as a final finish over the top, and with poly, both without problems. I haven't yet tried Danish or Tung oil, though I suspect they'll be fine. If in doubt, back to the golden rule again!
Unfortunately the method is a bit inconsistent so you'll find it very difficult to get two batches the same. Always make up enough for the job in hand in one go. If you want to be safe, go to the store and buy the stuff they've got there, but if you enjoy experimenting a bit this is great fun.